The Bird’s-eye view – Badami

In my previous blog, I highlighted that the journey is as important as the destination. Here, I’m trying to express that, the experiences the culture of a place offers is more important than the destination itself. I am talking about India as a whole than just sticking to the place I visited. Badami belongs to the Northern part of Karnataka state which is in the south of India. I am mentioning this to specify how culture, cuisine, tradition, the appearance of people, and even the accent of the same state language, “Kannada” change if you just cross a few 100's of km within the same state. Badami, Aihole, Pattadakalu has such a vast history; that I do not want to get into it as it would become a history lesson. Moreover, I cannot give justice to facts and background as it would require a certified historian or a guide. So, I would like to speak about funny incidents my friends and I encountered and want to narrate the glory of this place in the past and compare it with current situations. Having lived abroad for more than a year now, I have understood that people of other nationalities are curious about our land and culture. This takes me by surprise, and I want to compare what they think about current India to what actual India is.

India is well known for many things, mainly for its diversity and rich culture. Of course, not to forget the mouth-watering spicy food. The variety is what makes India special. As I mentioned earlier, I have been living on foreign land for a while now and the funniest part for me is to make others understand how we have multiple languages in the same country, and they are in no way similar to one another. My friends and colleagues abroad were surprised when I said that I could speak to two different people who are Indians, in completely different languages and the chances are very slim for those two(Indians) to understand both the languages, especially if one is from north and other from the southern part of India. Further, I don’t want to start about the west and eastern part of India which makes things even more complicated. Well, this is nothing to do with the places I visited but I would like to set a base for further related content in this blog. 

My friends and I did a two-day trip to Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal starting from Bangalore using public transport. Travelling in a car would have been much convenient however, there is no scarcity for public transport. We stayed for a night in Badami, which is the main town and commuted to other places from there. Aihole and Pattadakal are around 35 km and 20 km respectively from Badami. We hired an auto for a day which is called “Tom-Tom” by locals to travel from our hotel to other places within Badami and the next day we hired a jeep to cover Aihole and Pattadakal. The inn we stayed at is government accommodation which is well maintained with the best hotel for food as well. Food was a bit pricey, however, they were tasty and hygienic. We did not pre-book either auto or jeep as it was just outside the hotel. But I suggest it is better to look into pre-bookings if you are visiting in peak season which is March to July. Also, one should remember it involves a lot of walking within caves and other places if they are accompanied with kids or elderly. I was delighted to visit in September as it was not too hot, and the weather was very pleasant. I cannot imagine walking in summer which would reach 35 to 40 degrees.  

Pillars of Kalyani - Banashankari Temple

Our 1^st stop was at the ancient Banashankari temple of 7th century AD. I loved the surrounding of the temple more than the temple itself. It has a beautiful man-made pond which is called "Kalyani" in Kannada, surrounded with brilliantly sculpted tall pillars. One of the things I love the most about historic places is these magnificent stone sculptures and elevated pillars. One can wonder how much time and effort is required to build them. Also, the skills required and attention to detail are the wow factors. My friends and I were thrilled at the sight of this spot and clicked as many pictures as possible. We just hoped there was a little water in the pond. Our photo session ended when we realised earthworms crawling around and we were all barefooted..!!!!

Banashankari is a goddess and wife of Lord Shiva. In our Hindu culture, goddesses are considered more powerful than a male deity and are known to eradicate evil according to mythology. The irony is today women are not safe in India. I feel sad sometimes how people worship the goddess and call her "Shakti" whereas, right inside their homes, a woman would be subjected to domestic violence, humiliation or the worst case, mental and physical abuse. Even today, many women must fight and struggle to get their basic rights of education and to choose a career of their own. It’s just not my view but the world knows the situation in India through social media and mass media how women are abused and feel no safer either inside her own house or outside. This situation for women in India is what real India stands for. In an ideal Indian society, women are worshipped. The lord Shiva portrays an incarnation of Ardha Naresshwara, symbolising the equality between man and woman to show the symbiotic relationship that there is no Shiva without Shakti and the other way around. Balance is maintained. I remember explaining to my friends how in the country I live in now, I feel safe to take a cab in the middle of the night or even walk alone when it's dark. Further, women are not forced to get married just because they have crossed the legal age to get married. Instead, they are encouraged to choose the path they love. I wish I could feel the same in India too.

Saying all this, I am fortunate to have the best family I could wish for and the finest male friends. To add, my travel partners on this trip were my 3 male pals whom I know for more than 5 years now. I feel safe with them and I am proud to say that my buddies are well behaved. All the men that I am close to like my brother, cousins, father, and all my male friends are one of a kind. I feel blessed as I have never been treated poorly and when I feel lost and helpless these are the ones who jump into the matter to give a helping hand. This is authentic India and I pray that all women in India get support as I did. Just to remember, our land has produced heroic women like Oobava, Channamma, Lakshmi Bai and many more. If they were mistreated, they would have never created history.

Resuming about our trip, now a day’s tourism has become a trend and folks try local cuisines to get the essence of that place. Many foreigners prefer local houses to stay instead of a hotel so that they experience the way of life of that location. Therefore, we could see that the locals are used to visitors, and they see that as a business opportunity. I agree it is a good thing to improve the economy and standard of living for that place. But, few locals push tourists and make them feel like never to go back again. Our group experienced this as well. When we were clicking pictures near Kalyani, a woman pursued us continuously to sell us a local cuisine "Jollad Roti, Palya and buttermilk". We decided to purchase buttermilk after some time and politely conveyed that to her so that she wouldn’t follow us everywhere. But she kept on insisting us to buy food as she had not sold a single plate that day. We took pity on her and thought of buying the food and giving it to a handicapped who was in a wheelchair as we weren’t hungry to try it ourselves. However, things became weird when she pushed us to buy more for that handicap even though that person did not want more and kept on stating that that's enough. Though we were furious, we politely left the place and decided not to interact with local people thereafter.

Nevertheless, I’m not trying to highlight the unpleasant events here or judging that woman. To that woman, selling a plate of her food is for her livelihood. It is a shame that people are still suffering from poverty and lack of education. Their income depends on tourists and they just don't want to miss that opportunity of selling anything for that matter, not just-food. I got this through my personal experience when I use to work as a sales representative just for my survival on a distant land away from home. I used to knock every door just to reach my daily target. There is no concept of right and wrong when we do it to lead our lives, as life is not straightforward for everyone. Personally, the thing that hit me most is, how prosperously this very own land of ours once sold gold and diamonds on streets while today, people are struggling to sell a plate of food for livelihood.

One of the factors I would expect in India to change is to provide dignity of labour. When someone does certain jobs on foreign land, it is not considered as humiliating, but the same job is considered embarrassing in India. For example, few individuals consider working as a waiter/waitress, cab/auto drivers, the delivery person to be less dignified. In contrast, people would be ready to do those jobs abroad for survival. People should respect every job and treat every person as a human being. When I think about these issues, I feel the reason could be due to the standard of living in India which causes this kind of difference. A certain job is considered as less honourable, as these careers fetch less income, even though it is physically challenging. And certain professions are funded more and considered noble. However, in other countries, every profession is respected and well rewarded if not treated equally. In India, while people are leaning towards westernization, why not adopt this culture of living and let live by respecting every profession. 

Badami Cave temple

Coming back, our next stop was Badami cave temples, Agastya lake, and Badami fort. The marvellous Badami cave temples are a group of 4 caves together which is of 6^th century. And, the architecture belongs to Chalukaya’s period. Here, one gets to encounter ancient inscriptions, stone carvings and various mythological stories of Hindu gods and goddesses. Also, there are essences of Jainism and Mahavira's disciples who are called Tirthankaras. These gorgeous sculptures are mind-blowing and depict how gifted our ancestors were. The view of Agastya lake from the top of the cave is breath-taking. My friends and I were so excited and wanted to click 100's of pictures, but then we realized it's best to capture all of them in our memory. I can't stop thinking about the patterns on monolith rocks which are standing strong and magnificent for 1000's of years. That cool air, brushing my face and making my hair fly gave me more satisfaction and peace of mind than driving an expensive car. Next, we headed towards Badami fort where many Sandalwood (Kannada film industry) movies were shot. It took almost half a day to explore the complete fort. Those stone steps, narrow paths in between the rocks, small ponds here and there gave me an adrenaline rush. Our group felt like we were on some expedition and someone was waiting with a medal once we reached the top. We started running, chasing each other like kids, capturing those moments on our phones and making funny videos.

Dashavatara

Cave Temple 1

Tirthankaras

Agastya Lake

By the time we reached on top of the fort, we were so tired and started looking for a short cut to get down. We asked one of the security persons and he guided us to the path down which seemed a bit unexplored. Still, we took our leap of faith. The funniest part is my phobia for snakes evokes when I see a bushy path. I tried to convince my friends not to take that path, but they are like any other guys trying to be adventures. When we do such things, I remember horror movie’s characters trying to portray as brave end up in troubles. Just to get rid of my fear I tuned it into humour and started making fun of their bravery. Finally, one of my friends held my hand so that I would not concentrate much on my fear for snakes and we made it to the bottom. This was the funniest and cherishable moment for me. Once we got down, we were at the entrance of the Agastya lake which is stretched vast and clean across the Badami caves and Bhuthanatha temple. The view of the caves from this spot looked more mesmerizing than ever when that sandstone shined bright, bathed in twilight.

Badami Fort Temple

Badami Fort

Badami Fort

Concluding all this, I cannot ignore how all these places were well protected and maintained by the Karnataka government. They have done amazing work which has to be appreciated. But sadly, the thing which strikes more in the situation of the local people. This place is rich with history and filled with tourists. However, people are still poor and struggling to get even a basic facility like sanitation. We crossed a locality where people were washing clothes, cleaning vessels, pigs running around on streets. It is an irony this locality is right next to Badami caves which is one of the heritage of India. I decided to write this blog then, to portray the situation of this place which was once flourished. I pray that India reaches a position where poverty, illiteracy, and the unhygienic environment is eradicated. People of India should give importance to such issues and come together than fighting based on languages, boarder, religion, caste and silly things like movies. Additionally, the government should also focus on improving the locality and lifestyle of people living in this region rather than just focusing on the main tourist stops. We cannot forget the fact that the neighbourhood is a part of tourism.

Bhutanatha Temple

Cobh

I love to travel and so I constantly seek suggestions on more places to visit. Many people suggested visiting Cobh (pronounced as ‘Cove’) for a day trip. At first, I thought the place to be overrated as everyone who has been there described it as one of the most dazzling towns in Ireland. However, Cobh is easily accessible via public transport so, my friends and I decided to go explore it after Christmas. After my visit to Cobh, I realized it is indeed quite dazzling and colorful. 

Cobh is located in the south-east of County Cork and is well-known as "Waterfront Town" or "Seaside Town". It has the second largest natural harbor in the world after Sydney. Our group took a bus from Cork City center in the morning and reached Cobh after about 2 hrs of journey. It was a bright sunny day, so we were all excited and praying for it to not rain. This town is full of colorfully painted houses and a mesmerizing sea view. The sea can be seen from far away and as soon as our eyes met this sight, we started running towards it like small kids on the streets.

We wondered if we had reached the right destination as the streets were quiet and less populated in the morning. We found the “Lusitania Memorial” which was like a signpost for us. It is really sad to see such beautiful monuments built in the memory of disaster. Lusitania Memorial is one such monument. It was built in remembrance of victims of RMS Lusitania that sank in 1915 due to a German attack during World War I. Ironically, I was happy to see that I could relate something to what I had read in my history books.

St Colman's Cathedral

From the street, I could see a stupendous building and a clock bell ringing at 10. It was none other than the most famous St Colman’s Cathedral. It is the largest Cathedral in Europe. It looks absolutely stunning, standing uphill facing the ocean, the same ocean where once the Titanic stood waiting for her passengers to board. St Colman’s Cathedral is a mammoth structure with ornate architecture. I'm always in awe of the European architecture because of the tall pillars, bells, the magnificent and intricate designs. As I entered in, the splendid aisle leading towards the altar bewitched me. I was spellbound and stood there, savoring the craftsmanship of the building. No wonder it took 46 years to build this majestic monument.

Who doesn't know RMS Titanic and the classic love story of Rose and Jack? If anyone wishes to go back in time and know more about what happened in Titanic, they definitely need to visit "Titanic Experience”. Cobh was previously named as "Queenstown". It was the last stop where the historic Titanic harbored for her passengers to board and head towards New York. The whole tour is about two hours long and gives you the vibe of being in the Titanic itself. A guide explains each and every small detail related to the incident.

The most exciting thing about the tour was that we got to see the original photographs of Captain Smith and other crew members along with some video footages. Another fascinating detail of the tour was the tickets given to us which bore the names of actual passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown. At the end of the tour, we got a chance to view the model of Titanic and the history of passengers which were given to us. It was a thrilling experience, getting to know the real facts rather than just what is shown in the movie. However, the end of the tour is surreal as we are again reminded of the fate of the gorgeous Titanic.

To know more about the history of Ireland and how Irish people flooded during inflation which was caused post World War, one has to visit "Cobh Heritage Centre" which is next to Titanic Experience. There is a statue of Annie Moore who was the first immigrant in Ellis Island, New York. The funniest part of this trip was when my friends tried to recreate the same pose as the statue. Apart from all this, "Spike Island" is a must visit place. Unfortunately, the ferries to the island run only in summers, i.e March to September. For the rest of the day, we enjoyed long walks next to the harbor and hit a pub in the evening for refreshments. 

The bus runs every hour from Cork City center to Cobh. If anyone wants to enjoy a train journey, they can also take a train. Entry fee for Titanic experience is as below:

For Adults: €10.00, For Children (aged 5 to 15): €7.00, For Students: €8.50 and the timings are 10:00 AM - 5:30 PM. The above-mentioned prices are also applicable for Cobh Heritage Centre.

Western Cork

In this blog post, I introduce you to three locations in West Cork which I visited in a day's time. The first location is the Gougane Barra, the second is the Air India disaster memorial at Ahakista(which commemorates the air crash that occurred in 1985) and lastly, the breathtaking view of the Mizen head.

Gougane lake

My love for nature is everlasting. My heart was ecstatic at the sight of the dazzling still water and the enormous mountains which enclosed it. To me, Gougane lake seemed like a newborn baby who is safe in her mother’s arms, the Sheehy Mountains and the Caha Mountains. I don't know if Heaven really exists but such a place which is so peaceful and pure definitely makes me believe in the existence of heaven on Earth. The river Lee originates from these mountains and flows into the Gougane lake.

It is believed that St. Finbarr had built a monastery during the 6^th Century at this place. Although, now we see a small oratory which was built in its place in the 19^th Century. This location is a famous spot for weddings and photo shoots. Apart from ceremonies, the main attraction for youngsters is the hiking trail. Gougane Barra is surrounded by a well-maintained forest reserve named "Gougane Barra National Forest Park” which covers an area of about 138 hectares. The National Park has 5 km of motor trail and 10 km of hill walks, nature points, and Vista trails. It is also said that there are thousands of hidden fountains in these valleys. At the entrance, an extravagant Gougane Barra Hotel welcomes people who would like a vacation in this aesthetic and soothing environment. As I had planned only a day's trip and still had to cover two more places, I moved on to the next destination with a heavy heart. I wish to visit this place again for a hike soon and plan to stay overnight during my next visit.

Sometimes, I really wonder about human behavior. From the depths of my heart, a question arises, what is the purpose of our existence? In our short lifespan, we love some people, we also hate some, we dream of big things, we also cry over things we couldn't accomplish. People tend to run after what they don't have and neglect what they do have and is quite precious. Beneath all of this, what few people really crave for is power, wealth, luxury, pride, attention, victory and terror! What do we gain from all of this? When a person dies, what do they take with them? One thing I have learned is, the most dangerous animal on Earth is a human being. For one's greed and desire, one can destroy so many lives and not even flinch.

It was a sad moment when I came to know that a memorial has been built for the people who died in the Air India crash in 1985. All 329 people on board had died due to this incident. The deceased included 268 Canadians, 24 Britons, and 24 Indians amongst other nationalities. The Air India flight was traveling from Montreal to London and then Delhi. It wasn't a plane crash due to a technical glitch or human error that killed all these people. No, it was a bomb that had been planted on the aircraft which caused an explosion when the flight was over Ahakista, West Cork. The victim's names are engraved on a stone including their family details and age. I was overwhelmed by seeing that the victim's list included entire families and innocent children. It is a disgrace for us humans, being able to take hundreds of virtuous lives just for the sake of vengeance. Our whole group observed a minute of silence as a tribute to these families. Next, we moved on to our final destination Mizen Head.

Mizen Head

"The Wild Atlantic Way" as the name suggests, one can witness the ferocious waves roaring and splashing on the rocks. After visiting the calm and peaceful Gougane Barra, the view from Mizen Head was scary yet bewitching. This spot is also known as “The Edge of Europe”. The gushing wind, the endless water, and the rocky path is a treat to an adventure seeker. The view of the cliffs surrounded by the swirling and endless Atlantic ocean made my heart skip a beat.

Mizen head signal station was built about a century ago to warn ships about the sharp-edged rocks which are close to shore. And unbelievably, it has stood strong despite all the odds, forces and wildness of mother nature. This station has a lighthouse, a navigation aid simulator, and an automated weather monitoring unit. It also includes an award-winning “Maritime Museum”. Once we passed the entrance, we headed to various viewpoints. The whole walkway is fenced and I thought it to be quite unintelligent as it would block the view. However, after walking down the cliff for at least about a mile and after reaching our first viewpoint I understood why the whole path is fenced. I had never been so close to the ocean and was shocked to see steel bars deformed due to strong currents of wind and the ocean. It was at that moment that I felt both fear and joy at the same time. I was spellbound by the splendid sight. My urge to click thousands of pictures failed as I realized that no technology or high-resolution lens can do them justice. 

There are at least four different viewpoints which are a few miles apart. An enchanting bridge connects Sheep's Head cliff and the Beara Peninsulas. If one wonders what could be so special about the different viewpoints of the same place, I am out of words trying to explain how unique each one of them is. I recommend everyone to visit and gain this experience themselves, only then will they understand. If you are lucky enough, you may get to see whales, dolphins, and seals. Finally, tired of walking up and down the cliffs I decided to sit down and enjoy the glorious “Wild Atlantic”. With countless thoughts running in my mind, I realized that life is so short to be able to explore all the marvels of this world. An experience like this is for eternity and it has inspired me to embrace nature, leaving behind all the materialistic comforts. 

Unfortunately, there is no public transport available in these places. People need to have their own transport or can book tour through "Cork City Day Tour" which covers all of the above-mentioned places. Do keep in mind that Mizen head can get really cold and gets rains often, hence it's necessary to wear warm and water-resistant clothes. At Mizen head, they charge an entry fee as listed below. Per person, the charges are, for Adults: €7.50, for Senior Citizens (aged 65+): €6.00, for Students (with valid ID): €6.00, for Children (aged 5 to 15): €4.50 and for Families (inclusive of 2 adults & 4 children): €25.00. A small café and shopping unit are also situated at Mizen head for leisure. 

Blackrock Castle

A castle next to a river is a dream come true for every girl. Since my childhood, I'm always attracted by nature, historic places and fairy tales which include a prince, a princess, and a castle. I fantasize about them even now. And a place with water is always on top of my list of places to visit.

The view of the Blackrock Castle was a treat to my eyes. The mesmerizing beauty of this Castle, the river and the ferries nearby made my heart dance like a small kid. Even with the chilled wind blowing, all I wanted was to explore the castle.

Blackrock Castle has an amazing history and now it’s been converted into an observatory by Cork Institute of Technology(CIT). According to history, In the late 16th century, the citizens of Cork appealed to Queen Elizabeth I to construct a fort at Blackrock to "repel pirates and other invaders”. It is said that goods were shipped from "Little Island" to "Merchant Quay". This stretch was unprotected and merchants use to face huge loss due to pirates. Unfortunately, approval was denied hence, people of Blackrock Village came together to build this beautiful castle.

Compared to any other famous castles in Ireland, this is pretty small. The reason is, this place was used for storing cannons and military equipment. I couldn’t believe when I heard that this castle was burnt twice due to fire accidents but is still standing strong. Though it was renovated twice, nobody can make out unless it's briefed. Later all the explosives were moved out and the castle was used for "convivial gatherings"(Lavishes parties). Now it's turned into a planetarium and observatory. Along with this, everyone can have a guided tour inside the castle, enjoy the European Architecture and a glimpse of gunnery storage area.

The best part is reaching the top of the castle through a narrow staircase called "tripping steps" which was built to trick enemies to slip and fall off the steps. The view was stunning from the top of the castle. However, the massive cold winds can actually blow a person away. Shivering, despite being covered from tip to toe, I still managed to click some pictures and selfies with friends to cherish these memories. I missed visiting “Atlantic pond" which was within a km from Blackrock Castle as we ran out of time and evening was getting colder.

To reach Blackrock Castle, bus number 202 runs from the city center, Cork. The guided tour has an entry fee. Student/Senior/Children(5-14 years) would be charged €5.00 each. Adult tickets are €7.00 per person. A family which includes 2 adults and 2 children are charged €20.00 per family. A group with 25 people are charged €5.50 per person. Opening hours are from 10 am to 5 pm. However, the guided tour ends at 4 pm. Also, there is an exquisite restaurant right in front of the Castle.